How To Clean Camphor Wood Carved Chest

https://www.nytimes.com/1990/04/19/garden/loving-care-for-camphorwood-chests.html

Loving Care for Camphorwood Chests

April 19, 1990

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April 19, 1990

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LEAD: Years before the manufacture of synthetic camphor mothballs and flakes was even thought of, there was the real thing: camphorwood. Chests made of it must have been a boon for seamen, whose wardrobe for cold and hot climates usually had to accompany them on their voyages.

Years before the manufacture of synthetic camphor mothballs and flakes was even thought of, there was the real thing: camphorwood. Chests made of it must have been a boon for seamen, whose wardrobe for cold and hot climates usually had to accompany them on their voyages.

Camphor was not the only wood known to repel moths and other insects; there was cedar as well. But cedar does not flourish in the Far East, home of the camphor tree, and so it was there in the bazaars of the ports during the mercantile boom of the 19th century that many camphorwood chests were made.

There was also sandalwood, revered by Eastern woodworkers, but it probably was considered too noble a wood for such mundane cabinetry as the plain chest. It has been said that it wasn't the wood so much as the fact that the chest lids fitted to perfection and kept out anything flying or crawling.

Camphorwood trees big enough to produce a chest from five wide boards are no longer to be found. But happily it is surprising how many camphorwood chests are still in service or stored in attics on both American coasts; old chests so constructed are still available. An antiques show of any reasonable size will often have one or two in fine condition.

As far as old working chests are concerned, this means possessing a lived-in look and being structurally sound, with little or no evidence of poor repair work or dubious restoration. Most important is that the finish should not look original and pure, which can make it resemble an oversize cutlery chest of the type often found reposing on Victorian sideboards. Never allow a chest of this sort to end up devoid of every little nick and blemish picked up on its journeys, for in so doing its unique character may be lost forever.

The quality of workmanship that went into the chests varies, but even the best of them can be let down by the rather flimsy hand-beaten hardware used; it cannot compare with the fittings forged in Western countries.

Distinctive but hardly striking, camphorwood ages under a clear finish to a light yellowish-brown. The surface figurings are contrasting, but not sharply defined, streaks of darker brown. While the wood's distinctive aroma will have weakened with age, the fragrance can be revived briefly and unmistakably when an inside surface is lightly sanded.

Unless the finish of a chest is in a really sad state and stripping and refinishing seem to be the only practical solution, a less drastic facelift should be attempted. Usually a retired chest receives little wear, and the surfaces do not need too heavy a buildup of finish. The wood deserves some protection, though, when the finish is thin and balding. A coat or two of high gloss natural resin varnish, assuredly the original finish, would seem appropriate.

To prepare the wood for this treatment, the surfaces should be ''scuff sanded.'' The best type of paper to use is A-weight silicon carbide grade 220, light gray in color.

One application of varnish might be sufficient, but if this provides little improvement another coat will be necessary. If after this freshening up the hardware looks shabbier, clean it with 000 steel wool and metal polish. Resist the temptation to overdo it and polish the metal all over. Instead merely catch those areas that were handled the most during the chest's working life and highlight them, to contrast with the darker background of the rest of the plate fitting.